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Tucked away in the next lagoon north of Bluefields, Pearl Lagoon is a quiet,
clean, and safe Caribbean community washed in morning sunlight whose quiet lanes
are easily explored on foot. The natural, green splendor of Pearl Lagoon makes a
welcome respite from Bluefields, and the little village gives access to local
Miskito communities and the enchanting Pearl Cays. The locals earn their living
from the water—you’ll see boats of the five companies that deal in fish and fish
processing tied up along the docks or moored in the lagoon. Denmark and Norway
have been active in the economic development of the region, constructing
municipal piers in Pearl Lagoon, Haulover, Tasbapauni, Kakabila, Brown Bank, and
Marshall Point to assist local fishermen in getting their catch to market.
Of interest in town is the iron cannon (the locals lovingly call it “the
great gun”) mounted in front of the ENITEL building. It is embossed with the
seal of the lion and unicorn (symbol of the British Empire) and a date: 1803.
The rest is a long-lost mystery. The clean architectural style of the most
eye-catching building in town, the whitewashed Moravian church, was typical of
the period. Attending an evening service there is a memorable experience (dress
appropriately), reminiscent of oil-lantern and prayer-book services in the 1800s
elsewhere. To the south of town is a small branch of URACCAN.
Despite the current controversy over their ownership and development by
outside investors, most of the 18 utopian desert islands that make up the Pearl
Cays are still untouched and accessible (for now). They are located six
kilometers east of a small Miskito village called Set Net. Hire a boat from
Pearl Lagoon and enjoy the ride through the harbor, into the open Caribbean,
then up the empty coastline to the cays.
The cays have zero tourist facilities (except for one high-priced, fully
serviced “eco-lodge” that is wrapped up in scandal). Be sure to bring drinking
water, basic first-aid supplies, and snorkel gear, plus a hammock if you plan on
spending the night. Make a deal with your boatman—but pay the bill when he picks
you up, not when he drops you off. A round-trip panga ride to the Pearl Cays can
cost $150, so the more people chipping in, the cheaper it’ll be. If you find
yourself sharing one of the islets with local fishermen, you may find them
cutting down coconuts and telling fishing stories over a fire on the beach;
strike up a deal for some fresh fish.
Source: Moon Travel
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